The Night Spot That Roared
The Casino in 1929. When Jimmy Walker became mayor, he appointed a hotel businessman, who brought the inside of the building to “new standards of elegance and beauty.”Credit...The New York Times
By Stephen Wolf
May 25, 2012
IF I could return to just one moment in New York’s story, I would go back to the Roaring Twenties, with their radiant gatherings in Harlem and the rise of the Chrysler Building, when the city threw its most jubilant parade for Charles Lindbergh, the shy young pilot who, F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote, had seemingly nothing to do with his generation except allowing us to dream once more of our greatest possibilities. I would watch Babe Ruth round the bases with odd little steps, and at night I would visit the one place to be: the Casino, the elegant night spot in Central Park.
Just inside and southwest of Inventors’ Gate at Fifth Avenue and 72nd Street, where today’s SummerStage concerts are held, the Casino on many nights had fancy cars three deep in a lot built for 300. Bewitching cocktail music and the fragrance of foods drifted to the treetops when even the stars seemed ordered by the maître d’.
Designed in 1864 by Calvert Vaux, the restaurant was originally the Ladies’ Refreshment Salon, meant as a dining place for women visiting the park without male escorts. It resembled a simple cottage until renovated and expanded, catering then to a wealthy clientele and serving fish, chicken, lamb, steaks (a Porterhouse cost $1; mushrooms, 25 cents extra), lobster, scallops, oysters and Clams Casino, and offering a wine list with Champagnes and cordials including Paris’s licorice liquor, absinthe.
By the early 1920s, the Casino had deteriorated into what Variety described as “a somewhat dumpy nite-club style,” but on New Year’s Day 1926, a new mayor took office, one perfect for an age of such excess and excitement: “Gentleman Jimmy” Walker was initially just an aspiring songwriter with a popular little hit in 1905 called “Will You Love Me in December (as You Do in May)?”
AGE OF EXCESS The Casino was a favored destination in Central Park. Credit...New York City Parks Photo Archive
Dashing in gray spats and double-breasted suits, tall, handsome, fit as a dancer and with a perpetual smirk, he was loved by citizens for passing bills allowing Sunday ballgames and keeping subway rides a nickel. Mobsters liked his penchant for speakeasies. During his campaign, he had pledged city money to repair the park, and he kept his word, though most of it went to improving what he wanted to be the swankiest restaurant in town.
When city lawyers evicted the Casino’s proprietor, Walker appointed the hotel businessman Sidney Solomon, to whom the mayor owed a debt since Mr. Solomon had introduced Walker to his personal tailor. Mr. Solomon quickly assembled a board of powerful New Yorkers like William K. Vanderbilt, the banker Robert Lehman and the show business tycoons Adolph Zukor and Florenz Ziegfeld. Rumor had it that a financier was Arnold Rothstein, who fixed the 1919 World Series and was the model for the sentimental, coldhearted Meyer Wolfsheim in Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby.
Mr. Solomon did little to the exterior but inside displayed “new standards of elegance and beauty.” The Metropolitan Opera’s theatrical designer Joseph Urban modernized the interior with a main dining hall accommodating 600 guests, where two large glass chandeliers sparkled off black mirrors with an inlaid tulip design covering the walls and ceiling.
“It’s not just a renovation,” Mr. Solomon told The New York Times. “It’s something which has never before existed so perfectly in the world.”
A dozen stars each a yard wide dangled above perfectly set tables with maroon cloths and crystal glasses, gleaming cutlery and white napkins. Clusters of green and maroon balloons swayed to Emil Coleman’s orchestra with Eddie Duchin on grand piano. René Black, “Master of 40 Sauces,” was the maître d’hôtel, and a special French menu was prepared by Louis Rothschild’s former chef. Twenty-four-hundred requests for reservations were submitted for opening night, June 4, 1929, and with Walker’s plump wife and their children on a long Florida vacation, holding his arm was his young, slender, dark-haired mistress from the Ziegfeld Follies, Betty Compton.
Celebrating the repeal of Prohibition at the Casino in Central Park in 1933.Credit...Bettmann/CORBIS